If you're a Houstonian (and a canoeist, too), here's a trivia
question
you must know to amaze your friends and acquaintances. How many bridges
span
Buffalo Bayou? Take a guess...ten, twenty? Here's a hint…between
Katy Flewellen
Road near the Bayou's headwaters and the Sidney Sherman Bridge (610
East)
there are over 40 bridges. And that's not counting the railroad
bridges!
That's a lot of bridges since the initial span over the bayou was built
in
1843.
In the early days of Houston there were no bridges across Buffalo
Bayou.
Ferries were the only means of crossing from one side to the other.
Passengers
and commercial goods were ferried across at the foot of Main Street at
Allen's
Landing. Wagons crossed to the north and west of town where they forded
the
bayou near Washington Road.
The first bridge across Buffalo Bayou, known, then, as "the Long
Bridge,"
was built at Preston Avenue in 1843 by Richard Allen, a slave owned by
J.
J. Cain. The bridge was 100 feet long and supported by 26 posts. As
highlighted
in one of our earlier articles, that first bridge across Buffalo Bayou
at
Preston Avenue was extremely important to the commerce of early
Houston.
Although most of the city's trade took place around Main Street and the
shipment
of goods was through Allen's Landing, the new bridge assured that high
water
in the bayou would not prevent products such as cotton and agricultural
goods
from the farms to the west arriving by wagon at Market Square.
After that first bridge over the bayou, others followed as Houston's
population
grew. However, by 1873 the famous Koch map still showed only three
bridges
over the bayou. Those bridges were located at Preston Avenue, Commerce
Avenue
and Louisiana Street. By 1891, records show that the Franklin Avenue
bridge
had been built to connect the growing city with the north bank...and
from
then on the building of bridges continued at a record pace.
Angry Houstonians were responsible for the construction of at least one
bridge
over the Bayou. It was only when the residents of the Fifth Ward twice
threatened
to secede from Houston was the order signed for construction of an iron
drawbridge
at the foot of San Jacinto Street.
Bridges were landmarks for businesses located nearby and those
businesses
freely used their proximity to the bridges in their advertising such as
"Stanley
Brickworks – located at the north end of the Long Bridge."
And speaking of businesses locating near bridges, the Magnolia Brewery
at
Franklin and Milam actually extended over the bayou and onto the bridge
structure
at one point. The old brickwork of the brewery is still visible under
the
bridge.
One of the more bizarre tales about bridges over the Bayou in Houston
is
that of the Donnellan family grave vault -- a large brick vault with a
small
door boarded up with timbers located in the bank of Buffalo Bayou under
the
Franklin Avenue bridge at Louisiana Street. According to historical
records,
Tim Donnellan was buried in the vault in 1849; a brother of Thuse
Donnellan
who was killed by an accidental explosion of a bomb was buried in 1866
and
Mrs. Emily Donnellan who died in 1867. But don't be afraid of
disturbing
the dead when you paddle under that bridge. All the remains of the
Donnellan
Grave Vault were removed in 1901 to Glenwood Cemetery.
By far the most artistic bridge over the Bayou is the McKee Street
Bridge
near James Bute Park in the Warehouse District. Built by Houston
City
Engineer James Gordon McKenzie in 1932, the bridge is an unusual design
of
a reinforced concrete girder bridge. The peculiar feature of this
bridge
are the girders, which rise above the roadway to form two swooping
curves.
Until the 1980's, the bridge was abused through vandalism and graffiti.
That
was when artist Kirk Farris made it his pet project. He cleaned off the
rust
and urban decay, and applied the first coats of pastel paint. The flair
of
the bridge design has been described as representing either the waves
of
Buffalo Bayou below or perhaps a relative of the Loch Ness Monster, the
globes
on it's light standards looking like multiple eyes.
The bridges of Houston owe a lot to artist Farris and photographer Paul
Judice.
During the time that Farris was an investigator for the Harris County
Pollution
Department in the 1970s he realized that the bridges over Buffalo Bayou
were
monuments to the culture that built them and also told the story of the
bayou
and of Houston. In 1980, he received a grant from the Cultural Arts
Council
of Houston to prepare an exhibition about the bridges over Buffalo
Bayou.
In 1982, Farris and Judice created the exhibition called "Bridges over
Buffalo
Bayou" that was displayed at the Houston Public Library's downtown
branch.
That was when he decided to paint the McKee Street Bridge. With
approval
from the City, paint donated by the Bute Paint Company (originally
located
in the warehouse district at one end of the bridge – the
buildings of which
are now trendy lofts) and lighting supplied by the local Wholesale
Electric
Supply Company, Farris completed revitalization of the McKee Street
Bridge
which remains as we see it today in all its pastel glory!
All of the bridges over Buffalo Bayou and their fascinating stories
will
be found in our forthcoming book. Watch for it soon.
All material printed on this
page
and this web site is copyrighted. All rights reserved.
Copyright by Louis F. Aulbach,
2003